Home

The biggest mistake you can make when buying a racket is to buy before you try. Even if you test the racket, it may perform differently to perhaps a friends racket of the same type that you may have had a hit with at the club for instance. A racket strung at a different tension or with a hard grip instead of a cushion grip can give a totally different "feel" as well. Even a different vibro stop can effect the playability, so a bit of fine-tuning is to be expected when purchasing a new racket.

Firstly: if you have really made a bad mistake by buying clearly the wrong racket, then take it back to the shop and trade it in for another racket. Often the retailer will take the racket back and use it as a demo, especially if you're going to get another one and they're quite likely to cut you a pretty good deal as well.

Secondly: if the racket has a problem like a rattly grommet (lost in the frame) or a wobble in the butt (from poorly placed staples) then obviously the manufacturer will replace the racket no questions asked.

Note: Manufacturers will not replace rackets that have been badly treated, so if you expect them to replace your defective rackets, you should look after them.

Thirdly: if your racket doesn't stack up to your expectations and you suspect there is something wrong, there are a few inexpensive customisations you can do to enhance it's performance.

1. String tension
2. String type
3. Grip size modification
4. Grip type adjustment
5. Vibro stop change
6. Racket length shortening
7. Racket balancing
8. Racket weighting

Though it is widely recognised that "high tension increases control" and "low tension increases power", the jury is still out interpreting the scientific data on this subject and how it affects us individuals and our varied bodies and game styles.

I have personally experienced a gain in control with a significant lowering of string tension (although the adjustment took a while) and I have known several successful Pro's that have had great touch at low tension, so it can be theorised that; low tension can also increase control. Likewise higher tension can increase power by simply increasing the size of the rackets "sweet spot", thus giving the impression that less power is lost on slight miss hits, as the ball will deviate less.

For example: John McEnroe a touch and finesse player in the 80s used extremely loose strings and Bjorn Borg a power hitter also from the 80s used board tight strings.

In any case, the point is to experiment with string tension, write it down in your diary and remember to always use the same type of string in your new racket that you're used to.

Strings can vary enormously and the market is saturated with different brands that sell basically the same product in different packets, so it can be quite confusing. Again write down the brand names and type and name and your impression and stick to the same stringer if he does a good job for you and change if he doesn't. For more info on string types go to http://www.thetenniscoach.com.au/equip_strings.html.

Grip size modification is done either by taping-up the grip by taking off the existing material grip and building-up the frame by using tape or (heat) shrinking sleaves. These techniques tend to "round the grip" so the best idea is to test the racket you like with different grip sizes to begin with to minimise the chance of error. Also the racket butts tend to lose their bulk when you build up the grip, so getting a new butt from the manufacturer will solve this problem. Your Pro will help you decide your grip size and you will most likely have to make a choice from only two sizes anyway. NOTE: most adults use grip size 3 (4 3/8) or 4 (4 ½).

The type of grip you use can have an effect on performance of a racket, or more to the point, how you receive the rackets feed back. I personally use quite a hard grip, that is to say there is no cushion. These days the market is full of these cushion grips that I believe hinder control because of "grip wriggle" even though you get a nice soft feel. It's kind of like trying to write with a pen that has a sponge wrapped around it. A good tip is to use a hard grip and to wrap a grip tape (the absorbent type) around it to give a softer feel to a hard grip.

Having a Vibro stop will make the racket feel different but not necessarily better. I had to use a vibro stop when I dropped my string tension from 34 kg to 24 kg. I couldn't use a vibro stop at high tension and couldn't play without one at low tension. I also find my Dunlop Vibro stop plays better than any other (I don't use Dunlop rackets) but I don't know exactly why. Again, try different ones out, they are quite cheap or do what Mr Agassi does and tie an elastic band on instead, ah but what knot you ask? That's Andrea's secret!

Long body rackets are difficult to control. It seems that extra inch turns a good racket into a cumbersome lump of glue and graphite. In my mind, the gains in reach and leverage are dwarfed by the loss of control and dexterity especially during net play. The amount of twist that these rackets allow during off centre hits is hideous. So consider cutting the inch off. A re-balancing of the racket will most likely be necessary but this will defiantly improve the rackets control. Take the grip and butt cap off and saw (absolutely square) the inch off. Use a fine-toothed saw like a hack saw and get it right as there is no second take! Replace the butt cap and stick with glue or staple. Re-balance, re-grip and enjoy your new racket.

Racket balancing sounds complicated but it isn't. For a racket to be perfectly balanced, it must have weight evenly distributed through the frame so that if you measured the exact middle (end to end) it would balance on this point. To balance a racket evenly, (its most likely that) you will need to add weight to the racket. If you have an optimum weight in mind you then add weight to the light end until the balance point you require (normally a little head light) is achieved.

The photo below shows how easy it is to find a rackets balance point.

Weighting your racket up could hold the key to your next win, so measure accurately!

From this point on simply add weight evenly to both ends to achieve the required weight, keeping the distribution symmetrical. Start with balancing your racket evenly, then test what its like to have the racket, head light. Nearly all Pro's use heavy rackets slightly head light. You are probably not a pro, however you still have the same physiology.

Adding lead tape to increase a rackets weight.

NOTE 1: By adding lead tape to your grip you will be also adding width. When replacing the old grip, go for a thinner profiled grip and wrap it tighter to get back to your original grip size. If a lot of tape is to be added, try laying the strips up the grip and not around it, this way the grip will "round" less.

NOTE 2: Most rackets these days are too light and are head heavy, but should the opposite situation occur it is possible to shave off or drill out material from the grip area if you need to weight down. This should be used only as a last resort as this type of customisation is nearly always a disaster so you're probably better off selling the racket anyway.

Modern rackets tend to "sucker you in" because they are so light and dextrous, you can fling them around in the shop like D'Artagnan wielding a foil. The problem lies when you come to hit a ball and it feels like you hit a shot-put not a tennis ball. Light rackets also increase the risk of RSI's like tennis elbow, wrist and shoulder problems. For further info see http://www.thetenniscoach.com.au/ct_racquet.html

When deciding to build up the weight in your racket, you will have to decide on how much weight to add. By adding weight to a racket you increase it's power and diminish its dexterity, the trick is to have a balance of both. You can also add weight in strategic positions around the rackets to enhance the "sweet spot". Unfortunately, there are no rules on how heavy a racket should be in comparison to your size, strength or weight, but there are some general guidelines that seem to play out true.

General weight categories are:

1. 330-375 gm heavy- Pro or strong advanced players
2. 280-330 gm mid heavy- solid club players
3. 240-280 gm light-technically challenged players
4. 240 gm and below. Junior rackets or bad rackets generally.

NOTE: The measurement used to indicate racket balance is called POINTS. Each point is about 3mm. So a racket 2 points head light means the central balance point of the racket will be 6mm toward the handle. Start by adding half the weight you want and test the racket. Add the rest of the weight even if you think you don't need it; just test it, you never know.

Fine tuning a racket is easy, cheap and with a little experimentation, it can open you eyes to better tennis and better health by avoiding harmful lever forces that act against your body that cause a host of physical problems such as tennis elbow. So off you go out to the workshop and turn that mongrel racket of yours into a pedigree high performance whipping stick.

Good Luck
The Tennis Coach